Behind the flavor: Icelandic caviar

At the northern edge of Iceland, a small town rests beneath the watchful gaze of guardian mountains. This is Ólafsfjörður. Here, closeness to nature is woven into the fabric of the community. We have come to this striking northern fjord to witness a remarkable venture: the country’s only sturgeon farm, where Icelandic sturgeon caviar is being produced for the very first time. Accompanied by Moss Restaurant’s executive chef, Aggi Sverrisson, today marks a culmination of a journey shaped by bold ambition, meticulous methods, and a deep respect for nature.

Ólafsfjörður is, in many ways, the quintessential Icelandic fishing village. The sea is its beating heart, and the town bears its mark. Just by the harbour stands a row of colourful concrete houses, their walls still marked by murals that celebrate the treasures of the ocean. Within these walls lies the prelude to the town’s future: Hið norðlenzka styrjufjelag—The Northern Sturgeon Company—has been working tirelessly to advance innovation and expertise in the production of a delicacy sought after across the world.

The mission is clear: to build a thriving sturgeon farm and produce Icelandic caviar to the highest international standards of quality and environmental responsibility.

A sustainable rarity

“The company was founded in October 2021. The first fish arrived in 2022,” explains Dr. Eyþór Eyjólfsson, founder of The Northern Sturgeon Company. Eyþór knows the seafood industry inside out, having served for many years as managing director of seafood wholesaler Icelandic Japan and Stolt Sea Farm.

Environmental stewardship is close to his heart. “We brought sturgeon from Germany and Hungary last summer,” he says. The company raises four varieties: the Pacific white sturgeon, the Beluga sturgeon—extinct in the wild—Russian sturgeon, and Siberian sturgeon. Globally, sturgeon are an endangered species, making their work all the more important: raising these fish in conditions that closely mirror their natural environment. The company manages both hatchery and broodstock, ensuring the farm’s operations remain environmentally conscious, animal-friendly, and sustainable.

Homecoming  

“This is a true luxury product,” says Aggi Sverrisson, executive chef of Moss Restaurant. Over recent months, Aggi has been supporting The Northern Sturgeon Company in

product development, visiting Ólafsfjörður to follow the progress of their production. “It’s the first and only sturgeon farm in Iceland. They’re producing outstanding caviar—removing the roe by gently massaging the fish rather than killing it,” he adds, clearly impressed by the project.

“It’s remarkable that such high-quality sturgeon caviar can be produced here in Ólafsfjörður, especially when you consider that, in most foreign farms, the fish is slaughtered to harvest the roe,” notes Eyþór, visibly passionate about their processing method. The company uses a patented technique to collect roe from live fish, ensuring that every aspect of the process meets the highest welfare standards. “We have sturgeon specialists from a German university and a dedicated caviar master on site. Their role is to ensure the product meets exacting standards and that the farming follows the correct method, carried out as humanely as possible,” Eyþór explains, emphasising the importance of using available resources responsibly.

He is quick to point out that their approach doesn’t deplete natural resources—it safeguards them. “A product always reflects the environment in which it’s produced,” he says with conviction. Aggi adds that, because the fish are not killed, the process is as sustainable as it can possibly be—something he actively seeks when selecting ingredients for Moss.

Quality above all

Moss Restaurant has always placed exceptional importance on sourcing the finest ingredients, presenting dishes that are nothing short of an artistic experience. When asked about Moss’s ingredient philosophy, Aggi describes the caviar from The Northern Sturgeon Company as “pure luxury.”

“Moss is all about luxury—both in food and wine,” he says, clearly proud of the restaurant he has built over the years. Aggi handpicks every ingredient, aiming to bring out the distinct character of each—whether it be cherry tomatoes, lamb, langoustine, beetroot… or caviar. And he looks forward to serving this particular caviar in the restaurant.

“These roe have a different texture—they’re firmer, which is exactly what guests want. Sometimes roe from other sources can be too soft or even sticky, but these are nothing like that,” he notes. It is a point of pride that Moss’s guests can enjoy sturgeon caviar from an environmentally responsible, sustainable Icelandic farm—where quality, craftsmanship, and expertise meet world-class standards.

Honest and sustainable farming

Stepping into the facility, there is no mistaking it has long centered on the sea. Wooden pallets, overalls, rubber boots, and nets greet us in a large processing hall—a space clearly shaped by years of production. The salty scent is immediate, carrying the promise of what’s to come.

The welfare of the sturgeon is a clear priority, and their environment is exemplary. The fish are kept in separate tanks according to species and age. “They swim in fresh water—the same drinking water that runs down from the mountains here,” Eyþór explains, adding that water flow and temperature are carefully controlled, while geothermal and seawater systems replicate the natural conditions of the sturgeon’s habitat. He is justifiably proud of what they have built: “I think I can say there’s no other farm in the world using resources as well as we are.”

We peer into the tanks, seeing everything from tiny sturgeon to fully grown adults measuring up to three metres—creatures that can live as long as 120 years. After a mesmerising visit to the tanks, we ascend to the upper level.

We watch as a sturgeon is prepared for collection. Before committing to harvesting the roe, samples are taken and sent for analysis to ensure the product meets requirements and the fish itself is ready. A team of university students, working closely with Eyþór and his colleagues, move with precision and care. The sturgeon is gently lifted from the tank and placed on its back, kept moist at all times. The experts’ movements are deliberate yet soft. Once the roe are collected, they are carried to a clean, enclosed space where the next team of specialists begins their meticulous work.

From fjord to table

When the day’s harvest is ready, Aggi stands at a small table by the processing room, the air carrying the salt of the nearby sea. He begins crafting the delicacies for which he is renowned. This is his element: the passion for cooking for for ingredients is evident in every gesture. The caviar could not be fresher—its color, texture, and flavor speak for themselves. With a spoon of shimmering caviar and a glass of Dom Pérignon P2, he marks the moment: the arrival of a new Icelandic ingredient worthy of Moss’s menu.

Beside him stands a beautiful bottle of Dom Pérignon P2, ready for a toast. And it is indeed a moment to celebrate: the journey from bold idea to fully realised product has reached its first culmination. Or perhaps, it is only just beginning.

Now, our guests are able to taste this story—one that begins in a quiet northern fjord and ends in the dining room at Moss, where nature, craft, and luxury converge.